For many years, my wife Martha has told me that if you really, really want to know what hot chocolate is, you have to have it in Madrid, with a plate of churros. Martha happens to make a mean cup of hot chocolate herself (we call it Spanish chocolate, although I always suspected that in Spain they would just call it "chocolate"), so my appetite has been interested in this for a long time.
I finally had the opportunity to go to Spain in 2018. In Madrid, we stayed with Martha's aunt Luci, and had fun wandering the streets, gazing at the art of Sorolla, Goya and Velasquez, and catching up with relatives. I saw that "taberna culture" in Madrid — the lifestyle that values the neighbourhood eatery, which is like a pub and a family restaurant — is very much alive.
But there's nothing like the chocolate.
And the churros.
Martha took me to Chocolateria Valor, not far from Puerta del Sol, in a busy shopping district of historic Madrid.
Valor is a famous global chocolate brand (you can find it at Winner's sometimes), but their chocolaterias are something else. It's like an old-fashioned restaurant, with bright chrome and polished surfaces, and they sell mainly chocolate treats.
Martha has Valor products in the house, and once in a while we have an indulgent mug of hot chocolate. It's a world away from the boil-kettle-and-add-water-to-brown-powder I've known.
And it makes me want to go back to Madrid some day ...
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